This new café, Duke, replaced a neighborhood favorite, l’Ingenue, when the owner of the walls took back the lease. The new tenants opened amid Covid closures, but are serving takeaway (emporter) like their restaurant neighbors. Stop by show them support!
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This local favorite as been closed since October due to Covid restrictions, eerily paused in time, dust collecting on the underside of chairs. For now, it awaits for the flow of customers to set time in motion again.
Extra Old Café, 307 rue du Faubourg Saint-Antoine, 11ème
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Covid-19 closures are not stopping cafés from serving up some cheer during the holidays. This café in Les Halles has some holiday mulled wine (vin chaud) for sale. Yes, please!
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Café Photo of the Week is published every Wednesday, and showcases photography from our staff, contributors, and readers.
Takeaway Cheer, by Lisa Anselmo
Cafés, restaurants, and bars are closed until further notice due to a surge in Covid-19 cases in France, but that doesn’t mean they can’t still do takeaway. Many have created warm and festive pass-through areas, and offer both food and beverages, some even have holiday mulled wine (vin chaud).
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Cafés, restaurants, and bars are closed again in France, as a new confinement was ordered after a second wave of Covid-19 took over the country. This café near Père Lachaise Cemetery was taking advantage of the shutdown to do some upgrades. “I hope it’s not for nothing,” the owner told me. “I hope we can invite you again soon.” We hope so, too.
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Seen in the Marais. Chairs stacked at the end of the day. Cafés and bars have been shut due to a strong second wave of Covid cases in Paris, but many, which have a “restaurant” classification, are allowed to stay open. This one is among those lucky ones, just closing for the night.
Want to submit a photo for our weekly column, Café Photo of the Week? Click here for submission rules. If we like it, we’ll publish it with a photo credit! Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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Café Photo of the Week is published every Wednesday, and showcases photography from our staff, contributors, and readers.
Café Chairs, by Erica Simone
Photographer Erica Simone stopped to snap this shot of these gorgeous Maison Gatti café chairs stacked and waiting to be put out on the terrace of the charming Le Tambour in Les Halles.
WE’D LOVE TO POST YOUR PHOTO OF YOUR FAVORITE REOPENED CAFE! Submit one to us for possible publication here in Café Photo of the Week. Must be a recent photo post-déconfinement. Click here for full submission rules.
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We’re really captivated by the terraces of Paris this summer. Cafés are using their imagination to make the most of their extended outdoor space, and that helps us make the most of the lazy days of summer.
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During Covid-19, cafés have been allowed to enlarge their terraces to create social distancing. Some have really gone all out, like this café in the Haut Marais, which has created a festive oasis. The effect of all the enlarged terraces have turned the city into one big street party, and it’s wonderful to behold. We want the city to make these permanent as part of the greening of Paris. What say you Mayor Hidalgo?
WE’D LOVE TO POST YOUR PHOTO OF YOUR FAVORITE REOPENED CAFE! Submit one to us for possible publication here in Café Photo of the Week. Must be a recent photo post-déconfinement. Click here for full submission rules.
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The summer of 1982 was the beginning of a lifelong love affair with the city that would eventually become my home. Truth be told, it was love at first sight. On one of my many long walks through Paris, at the tender age of nine, I made a wish in my heart that one day I would be reunited with my true love. Sometimes wishes do come true, and as a young adult I did return for a couple of years, but it wasn’t until my late twenties that desire and fate bonded together to open the way for my dream to come true.
No matter how long I live here, I still find childhood ghosts around almost every corner. Originally, I had been brought over to be a summer companion and playmate for a little French girl who was about my age. But I loved my time in France so much, that by the end of the summer I couldn’t bear to leave. I begged my mother and big sister to let me stay. I was allowed to stay and enroll in the international class of a public school in the 6th arrondissement.
At that time, schools had Wednesday off and a half day of school on Saturday morning. While I wasn’t thrilled at the prospect of getting up early on the weekend to go to school, I did love the freedom that came along with it. Because everyone was busy on the weekend, I was allowed to roam free after school. And I almost always did the same thing. I would wander the city streets, together with my friend from school, Dédé. We almost always ended up on the Île Saint-Louis, where we would stop and buy a Coke with a little something to nibble on at one of the cafés. Afterwards, we would take our time strolling over to the Centre Pompidou—to this day, still my favorite museum in the city.
The Île Saint-Louis has always been one of the most romantic and charming spots to capture the quaint feel of old Paris, with used-book sellers, and lovers rapt in one another’s gaze sitting along the embankment. From nearly all the cafés on the île, one always has spectacular views, but perhaps my favorite place was l’Escale, a timeless little brasserie sitting on the corner of Rue des Deux Ponts, with a view directly over the Pont de la Tournelle facing the Tour d’Argent, a famously expensive restaurant that specializes in serving duck.
L’Escale has been around for more than sixty years or so, and is currently owned by the Tardieu family, who bought it in 1989. Portraits cover the walls of the little café and take one back to a Paris gone by. And although this cafe may not be the most picturesque, or the one most likely to conjure the literary memories of Hemingway like Café de Flore and La Palette, l’Escale still evokes a feeling of home for me. A few red booths run along the back, while small tables for two sit before floor-length windows, and against a wall lined with mirrors, giving the illusion of a larger space. In the center of the small space is the gold-rimmed bar, where from my childhood I recall men smoking and taking an espresso or a glass of wine, while chattering away to one another. Dédé and I would sit at one of the smaller tables drinking Cokes while gossiping and discussing our plans for the remaining weekend. Just two American girls growing up in Paris, mini-flâneures—both from California, where one would be always packed up in the back of a car or station wagon, only to look out a window for endless hours at freeways—who both loved the adventure and freedom of being on foot and on our own.
There is a sign to let you know that there is no WiFi and to suggest that you actually talk with the person in front of you.
The current owners were unable to tell me much about the restaurant, other than it had previously been owned by another family who had bought it from someone else in 1970. The interior certainly looks to have been given a facelift during that time. There are few architectural elements to properly date it, hanging lights that hover over the bar and a traditional black chalkboard that lists each day’s offerings. There is also a sign in French to let you know that there is no WiFi and to suggest that you instead enjoy your meal while actually talking with the person in front of you. I have found this same type of sign in several Parisian cafés, who rightly believe that one should appreciate both one’s meal and one’s companions rather than spending time FaceTiming and surfing the web on the phone, ignoring any and all live company and entertainment.
I wish I had more of a history about the restaurant itself, but the friendly staff, who only speak French, did not have much to say. There is no website with glorious tales of who had eaten there or sat at the bar, and no glory by association except perhaps from those of us who have had the pleasure of sitting for an hour or two and just lazily watching the boats pass under the bridge and up at the sky above, a place to dream over your café au lait.
L’Escale serves a traditional brasserie menu, omelettes, salads, and other traditional French cuisine, and they have an excellent selection of wines.
L’Escale, 1 Rue de Deux Ponts, 4ème Tel: +33 1 43 54 94 23 Métro: Pont Marie or Sully-Morland (line 7)
CORI COPPOLA is the producer of the documentary The House of Cardin, directed by P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes. She has worked as a coordinator and VFX producer for films and commercials both in the U.S. and in France, and is the official English-language biographer of the Japanese fashion designer Yumi Katsura. Ms. Coppola, who originally hails from Hollywood has lived in Paris for over 19 years. She is the granddaughter of famed opera conductor Anton Coppola, and part of the celebrated Coppola family. Her passion for art, fashion, and film continues to inspire and drive her work.
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L’été 1982 a été le début d’une histoire d’amour avec la ville qui allait devenir ma maison. À vrai dire, c’était le coup de foudre. Lors d’une de mes nombreuses longues promenades à travers Paris, à l’âge tendre de neuf ans, j’ai fait un vœu dans mon cœur qu’un jour je serais réuni avec mon véritable amour. Parfois, les souhaits se réalisent, et en tant que jeune adulte, je suis revenu pendant quelques années, mais ce n’est que vers la fin de la vingtaine que le désir et le destin se sont liés pour ouvrir la voie à la réalisation de mon rêve.
Peu importe combien de temps je vis ici, je trouve toujours des fantômes d’enfance dans presque tous les coins. À l’origine, j’avais été amené à être un compagnon d’été et un compagnon de jeu pour une petite fille française qui avait à peu près mon âge. Mais j’aimais tellement mon séjour en France qu’à la fin de l’été, je ne pouvais plus supporter de partir. J’ai supplié ma mère et ma grande sœur de me laisser rester. J’ai été autorisée à rester et à m’inscrire dans la classe internationale d’une école publique du 6e arrondissement.
À cette époque, les écoles avaient un mercredi de congé et une demi-journée d’école le samedi matin. Bien que je n’étais pas ravie à l’idée de me lever tôt le week-end pour aller à l’école, j’aimais la liberté qui l’accompagnait. Parce que tout le monde était occupé le week-end, j’ai été autorisé à me promener librement après l’école. Et j’ai presque toujours fait la même chose. Je déambulais dans les rues de la ville avec mon ami de l’école, Dédé. Nous nous retrouvions presque toujours sur Île Saint-Louis, où nous nous arrêtions et achetions un coca avec un petit quelque chose à grignoter dans l’un des petits cafés. Ensuite, nous prenions notre temps pour nous promener au Centre Pompidou—à ce jour, toujours mon musée préféré de la ville.
L’Île Saint-Louis a toujours été l’un des endroits les plus romantiques et les plus charmants pour capturer l’atmosphère pittoresque du vieux Paris, avec des vendeurs de livres d’occasion et des amoureux ravis dans le regard de l’autre assis le long des quais inférieurs. De presque tous les cafés de l’île, on a toujours eu des vues spectaculaires, mais mon endroit préféré était peut-être l’Escale, une petite brasserie intemporelle située au coin de la rue des Deux Ponts, avec une vue directement sur le Pont de la Tournelle qui est en face la Tour d’Argent, un restaurant réputé cher spécialisé dans le service du canard.
L’Escale existe depuis plus de soixante ans environ et appartient actuellement à la famille Tardieu, qui l’a achetée en 1989. Des portraits recouvrent les murs du petit café et en ramènent un dans un Paris révolu. Et bien que ce café ne soit pas le plus pittoresque ou le plus susceptible d’évoquer les souvenirs littéraires d’Hemingway comme le font Café de Flore et La Palette, l’Escale évoque toujours un sentiment de chez moi. Quelques petites cabines rouges courent le long du dos, tandis que de petites tables pour deux sont assises devant des fenêtres au sol et contre un mur garni de miroirs, donnant l’illusion d’un espace plus grand. Au centre du petit espace se trouve le bar bordé d’or, où depuis mon enfance je me souviens d’hommes qui fumaient et prenaient un expresso ou un verre de vin, tout en bavardant. Dédé et moi nous asseyions à l’une des plus petites tables pour boire du coca tout en bavardant et en discutant de nos plans pour le week-end restant. Juste deux filles américaines qui grandissaient à Paris, des mini-flâneures —toutes deux de Californie, où l’une était toujours emballée à l’arrière d’une voiture ou d’un break, seulement pour regarder par la fenêtre pendant des heures sans fin sur les autoroutes—qui aimaient toutes les deux l’aventure et la liberté d’être à pied et seul.
De presque tous les cafés de l’île, on a toujours eu des vues spectaculaires, mais mon endroit préféré était peut-être l’Escale
Les propriétaires actuels n’ont pas pu m’en dire plus sur le restaurant, à part qu’il appartenait auparavant à une autre famille qui l’avait acheté à quelqu’un d’autre en 1970. L’intérieur semble certainement avoir subi un lifting pendant cette période. Il y a peu d’éléments architecturaux pour la dater correctement, des lampes suspendues qui planent au-dessus du bar et un tableau noir traditionnel qui répertorie les offres de chaque jour. Il y a aussi un panneau en français pour vous informer qu’il n’y a pas de WiFi et pour vous suggérer de profiter plutôt de votre repas tout en discutant avec la personne devant vous. J’ai trouvé ce même type de signe dans plusieurs cafés parisiens, qui croient à juste titre que l’on devrait apprécier à la fois son repas et ses compagnons plutôt que de passer du temps sur FaceTiming et de surfer sur le Web par téléphone et d’ignorer toute compagnie et divertissement en direct.
J’aimerais avoir plus d’histoire sur le restaurant lui-même, mais le personnel amical, qui ne parle que français, n’avait pas grand-chose à dire. Il n’y a pas de site Web avec des histoires glorieuses sur ceux qui y ont mangé ou qui se sont assis au bar, et aucune gloire par association, sauf peut-être de ceux d’entre nous qui ont eu le plaisir de s’asseoir pendant une heure ou deux et de regarder paresseusement les bateaux passer sous le pont et au-dessus du ciel, un endroit pour rêver au-dessus de votre café au lait.
L’Escale propose un menu traditionnel de brasserie d’omelettes, de salades et d’autres plats traditionnels français, et ils ont également une excellente sélection de vins.
L’Escale, 1 Rue de Deux Ponts, 4ème Tel: +33 1 43 54 94 23 Métro: Pont Marie ou Sully-Morland (ligne 7)
CORI COPPOLA is the producer of the documentary The House of Cardin, directed by P. David Ebersole and Todd Hughes. She has worked as a coordinator and VFX producer for films and commercials both in the U.S. and in France, and is the official English-language biographer of the Japanese fashion designer Yumi Katsura. Ms. Coppola, who originally hails from Hollywood has lived in Paris for over 19 years. She is the granddaughter of famed opera conductor Anton Coppola, and part of the celebrated Coppola family. Her passion for art, fashion, and film continues to inspire and drive her work.
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These tables would normally be much tighter, with two seats side-by-side, facing out. But this is the new normal. Not everyone gets a view, but everyone can enjoy the terrace. Seen in the Marais.
WE’D LOVE TO POST YOUR PHOTO OF YOUR FAVORITE REOPENED CAFE! Submit one to us for possible publication here in Café Photo of the Week. Must be a recent photo post-déconfinement. Click here for full submission rules. ************** Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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Colorful “happy hours” signage, captured during confinement. Today, this terrace is filled with customers once again, making these truly happy hours en terrasse. We take these hand-lettered signs for granted, but they add so much to the café experience. In a Café Photo of the Week first, we offer a bonus image of the same terrace, taken from a post-confinement perspective. Before and (happily ever) after.
WE’D LOVE TO POST YOUR PHOTO OF YOUR FAVORITE REOPENED CAFE! Submit one to us for possible publication here in Café Photo of the Week. Must be a recent photo post-déconfinement. Click here for full submission rules. ************** Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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Since, Tuesday, June 2, cafés in Paris were allowed to open again, but only terrace service. So what to do? Take up as much terrace as the law allows: sidewalks, parking spots, down the street, and even in the street. We’re okay with that.
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Tuesday, June 2, marked the day when we could once again sit on our beloved café terraces here in Paris. Your favorite Editor-in-Chief made a beeline to my HQ and had un verre de vin to celebrate, but I visited many others, including Au Cadran Voltaire on Place Leon Blum, where I shot this photo of their terrace after the lunch hour. Paris feels alive again.
WE’D LOVE TO POST YOUR PHOTO OF YOUR FAVORITE REOPENED CAFE TERRACE! Submit one to us for possible publication here in Café Photo of the Week. Must be a recent photo post-déconfinement. Click here for full submission rules. ************** Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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When cafés were forced to close as part of an effort to stop the spread of Covid-19, the sight of stacked chairs behind locked glass doors broke the hearts of Parisians. But artist Geoffrey Guillin saw something different: a beauty in the stillness of a city in lockdown mirrored in its cafés, which are at the center of Paris life.
In his newest series of 44 photographs called Bright Silence, Guillin documents café closures during confinement, but also tells the story of Parisian lives very much on pause. Shot entirely through the windows of closed cafés, these haunting images with their soft light and shallow depth of field, present a dreamlike portrait of abandoned rooms suspended in time. Reflections of a troubled outside world are superimposed over calm that has been carefully preserved and protected behind glass. These convivial places seem to retain their lightness despite their emptiness.
“I took these photos to show the bright soul of cafés,” Guillin says, “and how important the details of the decoration affect our well-being when we are there.” Undoubtedly, it’s a story told in details: coffee cups hastily stacked; empty water decanters lining a bar; a calendar frozen on 14 March, the last day cafés were open for service.
“I wanted to show the intensity and the luminosity of these places so dear to us, and our cultural heritage.”
The images stir emotion, yet are not maudlin. Guillin lets the cafés and their details speak for themselves without manipulating the viewer. “I wanted to show the intensity and the luminosity of these places so dear to us, and our cultural heritage.”
In showcasing the quiet details of these restaurants, making them glimmer and glow like jewels, Guillin exalts the everyday café—and lifts the viewer’s spirit the way cafés themselves do. “A café is a refuge when you are feeling sick at heart. It’s also a symbol of life,” Guillin says. “So, yes, [this work] represents the heartbeat of Paris, where friends can meet, love, forget, laugh, cry—but above all, feel alive.”
L’Escale on Ile St. Louis is doing takeaway beverages and nibbles. Pop over and support them if you are in Paris, and enjoy un petit café while you relax on the quay overlooking the Seine.
L’Escale, 1 Rue des Deux Ponts, 4ème
Support your local restaurants. Contact them directly for takeout or delivery because they earn more than if you use third-party apps like Uber Eats or Deliveroo (France).
Want to submit a photo for our weekly column, Café Photo of the Week? Click here for submission rules. If we like it, we’ll publish it with a photo credit! Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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It is with great joy, that we announce that the beloved Le Pure Café is open again—for takeaway (à emporter), exclusively. They serve a few items from their usual menu, and a plat du jour, all affordably priced. Read more about our editor-in-chief’s experience, here.
While the government here has loosened restrictions on non-essential shops, cafés and restaurants remain closed, forcing them to become creative to stay afloat and adopt the “takeaway culture” taken for granted in restaurants in the UK and USA.
In Paris? To order from Le Pure Café, call 01.43.71.47.22, go to Facebook or Instagram, or visit them directly at the café.
Support your local restaurants. Contact them directly for takeout or delivery because they earn more than if you use third-party apps like Uber Eats or Deliveroo (France).
Want to submit a photo for our weekly column, Café Photo of the Week? Click here for submission rules. If we like it, we’ll publish it with a photo credit! Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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This photo was taken a few years ago, while the photographer was staying in the Marais. It’s had a makeover since, but still a local favorite, situated on the beautiful Parc Royal.
Le Sévigné–Morgenmadsstedet, 15 Rue du Parc Royal, 3ème
Want to submit a photo for our weekly column, Café Photo of the Week? Click here for submission rules. If we like it, we’ll publish it with a photo credit! Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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This café on the corner of Rue de Seine and Rue de Buci is always packed with locals and tourists alike, and it’s favorite of the photographer as well. (Our editor-in-chief also has some fond memories of this charming, popular place.) It can be pricey given its location in the chic Saint-Germain-des-Près neighborhood, but the staff is friendly and welcoming. We hope we can sit on its sunny terrace soon again.
Bar du Marché, 75 Rue de Seine, 6ème.
Follow Joan on Instagram. Visit her photography site here.
Want to submit a photo for our weekly column, Café Photo of the Week? Click here for submission rules. If we like it, we’ll publish it with a photo credit! Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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This hauntingly beautiful image was shot through the window of La Poule au Pot, closed like all cafés since mid-March due to the Coronavirus pandemic. This café has all the classic details right down to the zinc-top bar. We love it.
Discover Nicola’s collaborative music project, The Covid Sessions, here. (Have tissues ready.)
Want to submit a photo for our weekly column, Café Photo of the Week? Click here for submission rules. If we like it, we’ll publish it with a photo credit! Submission does not guarantee publication. Accepted photos will run in the order they are received. When you submit a photo, you give Save the Paris Café non-exclusive rights to publish it, free of charge, on our website and in social media, in perpetuity.
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SAVE THE PARIS CAFÉ 